Through the Tunnel of Trees

Few places capture the essence of fall in Michigan like M-119, better known as the Tunnel of Trees. Winding along the Lake Michigan shoreline through Emmet County, this historic scenic byway offers one of the most beautiful autumn drives in the Midwest.

Narrow, curving, and surrounded by hardwood forests that ignite with color in October, M-119 is ideal for a weekend road trip filled with small-town charm, seasonal treats, and unforgettable views.

START IN PETOSKEY

Begin your journey in Petoskey, a lakefront community known for its walkable Gaslight District and picturesque downtown. Victorian storefronts, antique lampposts, and a sweeping view of Little Traverse Bay set the scene for a cozy autumn escape. Grab coffee at Roast & Toast or a fresh-baked pastry from Johan’s before exploring local shops like Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts and Symons General Store. The historic Perry Hotel offers a classic overnight stay and front-row seats to some of the best sunsets in the state.

Before heading north, fuel up your tank and download offline maps—there are no gas stations along the Tunnel of Trees, and cell service is unreliable in many spots. Also, dress in layers: the lake breeze can drop temperatures quickly, especially under the tree canopy or near the bluffs, and deer are frequently seen along the route, so driving slowly isn’t just recommended—it’s essential.

HARBOR SPRINGS: THE GATEWAY TO THE TUNNEL

From Petoskey, follow US-31 north, taking a left at the start of M-119 toward Harbor Springs, a resort town where sailboats bob in the harbor and historic homes line the hills above. The drive begins to wind here, with tree-lined curves foreshadowing the scenic stretch ahead. Pause for a lakeside stroll or grab a fresh sandwich and picnic fixings at Gurney’s.

For those looking to stay right on the route, Otis Harbor Springs makes an ideal home base. Perched at the southern tip of the Tunnel of Trees, this 100-year old space recently went through a top-to-bottom renovation. The thoughtfully designed boutique hotel offers not only luxurious rooms, but also an on-site restaurant and bar that has seasonal offerings like hand-cut tagliatelle with lamb ragu and the fall-themed Otis Old Fashioned. With a fireplace lounge, cafe and general store all onsite, it’s a stylish and convenient anchor point for the trip.

DRIVING THE TUNNEL OF TREES

Once you leave Harbor Springs, M-119 narrows and the trees grow dense, closing in to form a brilliant canopy of red, gold, and orange overhead. Sunlight filters through the leaves, casting dappled light across the road as it twists and rises along the bluff’s edge. There are no shoulders and few places to pull over, but that’s part of the experience. Don’t rush the drive, enjoy it!

Keep an eye out for dramatic curves like Devil’s Elbow and Horseshoe Bend, two of the route’s sharpest and most memorable turns. Devil’s Elbow has a flowing spring in its ravine that was believed by area Odawa Indian Bands to be the home of spirits who make their presence known in the hours of darkness, while Horseshoe Bend is a sharp hairpin turn that’s graced the cover of many local postcards.

About ten miles into the Tunnel, Pond Hill Farm becomes a fall wonderland every weekend from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., September 23 through October 29. This family-friendly destination offers classic autumn fun with a playful twist: you can launch gourds with the Squash Rocket 2.0, go pumpkin bowling down the vineyard hill, or smash pumpkins in a safe, designated area. There are hayrides, a bounce house on select weekends, and live music on the Waterwheel Stage. The sprawling pumpkin patch overflows with giant pumpkins, gourds, and winter squash, and warm treats abound—from hot cider and donuts to brick oven pizza made fresh on-site. Adults can sample local pours at the wine tasting tent or enjoy a house-brewed craft beer or cider, and the rustic market inside the barn is stocked with jams, honey, and Michigan-made gifts.

As you continue north, make time for a stop in Good Hart, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hamlet packed with charm. The Good Hart General Store, with its red exterior and welcoming front porch, offers fresh baked goods, pantry staples, and locally made gifts—don’t leave without a warm cookie or one of their famous pot pies. Just down the road, Three Pines Studio showcases fine crafts and art inspired by the landscape of northern Michigan. It’s an ideal place to stretch your legs, chat with a local, and take home something beautiful and handmade.

Shortly afterward, you’ll pass Middle Village, a peaceful area rich with Native American history. Pull over if you can and visit St. Ignatius Church, a white-steepled landmark perched above Lake Michigan. The quiet here is profound, and the view of the lake through the trees adds another layer of reverence to the journey.

END IN CROSS VILLAGE

The Tunnel of Trees culminates in Cross Village, home to the iconic Legs Inn. This one-of-a-kind restaurant is as much a visual experience as a culinary one—adorned with fieldstone, driftwood, and the dozens of stove legs that trim the roofline (yes, really), which give the restaurant its name. It’s a feast of craftsmanship and heritage. Inside, the menu leans heavily Polish: pierogi, smoked whitefish, potato pancakes, and hearty stews. Grab a table in the back garden if weather allows—sunset views over Lake Michigan from this blufftop perch are unmatched.

EXTEND YOUR TRIP

If your schedule allows, continue your fall adventure north toward Mackinaw City. The forest opens up into wide fields and lakeshore, where you should be sure to detour through Sturgeon Bay, a three-mile stretch of sandy beach and gorgeous views. In Mackinaw City, treat yourself to a slice of classic Michigan fudge, browse the local shops, or just gaze at the Mackinac Bridge rising up on the horizon.

The Tunnel of Trees may only be a 20-mile stretch of road, but it delivers everything a Michigan autumn promises: breathtaking color, the crunch of leaves underfoot, family-friendly farms, quiet artistry, and a sense of timeless beauty. Drive slowly. Stop often. Let the road—and the season—carry you.

TOP PHOTO: WKND tunnel of trees fall colors autumn (ID 3086284 © SNEHITDESIGN | DREAMSTIME.COM)